Day 1: Walpole to Frankland River Shelter

"It is tempting to think that Tolkien might have used majestic trees like these as the basis of the 'Ents' of Fanghorn in 'Lord of the Rings'. So wrote Jim Baker, an experienced walker who knows the Bibbulmun Track intimately.

The hike from Walpole is considered by many as the most beautiful section of the Bib Track. Quote from "A Guide to the Bibbulmun Track":

'The Track re-enters karri and tingle forest, crossing the South Coast Highway and climbing towards the Hilltop Lookout, with lovely views over the inlet to the southern ocean. A short walk further leads to the Giant Tingle Tree tourist site, with boardwalks, trails, tables and toilets.'

After getting off the bus, the journey for which I paid $13 for the 65km distance from Denmark, I walked into the office of DPAW and said hello to Howard, the expert on track conditions. He had good news. The Parry Inlet may be passable and if I was lucky, I could walk the Mazolletti Beach.

So I started with high spirits despite the rain that started during the bus ride. The rain stopped not long after. An hour later, I was ready for lunch. As pit stop, I chose the caravan park at Coalmine Beach where a nice lady let me use the campers kitchen. And it was bliss, just munching away at my two steamy hot dumplings (chung). It was happiness in solitude, alone and one with nature, and not a bit lonely, I must add, with some hesitation.

The giant tingle tree, which I passed, was amazing. Its girth was 24m, its height 70m, and it had stood there at least 400 years. A Chinese family I met there agreed to take my photo.

Along the way, many trees had fallen due to recent storms.

I arrived at Frankland River Shelter at 4pm. It's a beauty, and what gorgeous surroundings right beside the river, which name the shelter takes after.

I spent the evening alone. Not quite, you'll see.